Stuff I took off can be used as spares for the other bikes. WR250Rs (wife and daughter) so I console myself with the idea that a lot of the Yamaha engine guards from R model - painted black Panasonic Relay and fuses from Eastern Beaver Zeta Clutch and Brake 3-finger unbreakable levers While that was going on, here is what else I did to the bike:Įnduro Engineering Front and Rear Axle Sliders Waiting which is about as easy as waiting for Christmas when you’re eight years Thumper Racing will fit the new sleeve into your cylinder. I put everything into little plasticīoxes, stuffed rags into every available hole, and covered it all over while The timing chain, and make sure you wire the chain to something so it doesn’tĭrop down into the bottom of the engine. Just make sure you mark the position of the cams relative to Once the engine is out, it’s pretty simple to pull the head,Ĭams and cylinder. Theįuel injector stays on the bike, as well as the mount for the fusebox etc. Its cradle, but you will need to temporarily pull the swingarm pivot bolt. Then, just disconnectĮvery wire and hose attached to the engine. Radiator, shifter, countersprocket, and brake pedal. ![]() The Service Manualĭocuments the procedure, but doesn’t tell you when to stop – they assume you To work on this engine, you need to remove it from the bike. Travis at TR was incredibly helpful before and after my We will need the Cam specs and the rev intentions to insure the heads are at your needs.I recently bought the big bore kit from Thumper Racing and If the revs are to be at the 4500 and higher range on full boost and yet still need power out of the turns, then we offer our performance “Big Valve Head”. We do know that there are racers out there, and we do also make a head for the track and seriously aggressive drivers. And if the “off boost” is where we drive 70% of the time, then the higher flow numbers of a “larger valve” head means slower moving air and a low to mid range loss where we don’t want to lose it. We keep the stock valve size with a 5 angle performance valve job (flow cut on the valve) to maintain the good street manners, and yet with the correct port work in the runners, bowls and throat, it will pull hard till you reach the red line when on boost! Velocity is the key to a small displacement engine, as we are NOT on boost all the time. Our Stage 1 Street Performance Heads are modified to work with the basic mods used by most MCS drivers - the pulley, exhaust and CAI, yet still allow more power when a camshaft or other future modifications are added. Keep the low to mid range for the stop light to stop light drive and still have all the additional power needed for the higher rev aggressive driving we all love on the occasional Track Day. Power to keep the daily commutes fun and exciting. Our Ported Cylinder Heads reflect this idea. Our intentions are NOT to try everything, but to try and decide the best bang our buck! However, we will try to be a little bit different, as we will share all the data we have noted on those items, from OUR own cars, with actual road tests (SOP meter) and the Dyno sheets. When we find a procedure or an item that will increase the torque and the power levels, we will offer it up. in street conditions, where the airflow is poor.Īlthough we are primarily interested in Performance Cylinder Head Modifications, we will look into other mods also. The cooling fans at the dyno are primarily to cool the engine and NOT used to super cool the I/C, which will give an incorrect “actual” H.P. ![]() We try to keep it as real to the actual driving conditions as possible. The gains of power are proven on the Dyno. You can count on the products you see on this site to have been tested and installed on our own cars. We are dedicated to increase the performance of our MC and MCS through expanding new ideas and prior experience from our own engine building and racing experience.
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